Karori to Terawhiti Station
Goal of this training
This training covers:
- Tour Overviews: short description of the tour routes, descriptions (FIT and Cruise Ships) and Health & Safety
- Tour Stories (Summaries): (model tours) of the 'core' tour stories that need to be delivered as part of your tour (as a minimum - take the Quiz when you are ready...)
- Tour Stories - Ever growing pool of knowledge
Tour overviews
(1) FIT HALF DAY
PRE TOUR
- Arrive on time at the Depot (usually 8:45am morning tour for 9:30am start; 12:45pm afternoon tour for 1:30pm)
- Make sure you:
- Have the keys to the padlock gates for Terawhiti Station (mission critical!)
- Prepare the Thermos, bags for refreshments and snacks
- Check your Runsheet on the App (REZDY)
- Confirm your pick-ups with anyone else helping you
- Check on traffic conditions (plan to leave early if there has been a crash/breakdown on the route)
- Check on weather conditions (if likely to be wet take umbrellas).
- Aim to leave the Depot at 9:00am/1:00pm depending on your first pick up location. It can take up to 30 minutes to the city on busy days in peak hour traffic.
ON TOUR
- Rendezvous with anyone assisting with your pick-up run at the prearranged destination [usually Wellington iSite, YHA or Mt Victoria Lookout]. If you have to switch passengers around at this point, ensure you have everyone on board before commencing your tour.
- For all tours welcome the Group, outline the itinerary, and go through the H & S Checklist:
H & S Checklist
|
Tour description
Pick-up (iSite, hotels):
- Welcome the Group and outline the itinerary and timings
- Head through the city either via Whitmore Street/Molesworth Street or Bowen Street/Tinakori Road (pointing out Parliament) up through Wadestown to Otari Wilton's Bush
Otari-Wilton's Bush
- Park in the tour bus park
- Advise that this location usually takes about 20 minutes
Otari to Terawhiti Station
- After the visit advise the Group that the drive to Terawhiti Station to head onto the Red Rocks Seal Colony takes about 20 minutes
- Drive on through Karori (via Curtis Street) to Makara Valley (advise the Group that part of the trip down into Makara valley is a bit of a winding road), turning left at South Makara Road at the Makara Village and head to Terawhiti Station
Terawhiti Station
- Introduce the Group to Terawhiti Station and stop open the first padlocked gate
- Advise the Group about the gravel, winding rutted roads up and over to the Seal Colony
- Take a left at the top of the climb to the top of the ridge and head over the cattle stop to the left and then south to the right
- Stop at the top (after xx km) to show the Group the view north towards Mana and Kapiti Islands
- Head down to the Seal Colony. Advise the Group that shortly you will be leaving the Meridian maintained tracks and driving down on the rougher farm tracks. You will also be shifting into 4 Wheel Drive (D1)
- Open and close the last padlocked gate before reaching the coastline (public land)
- On approaching the Seal Colony point out the first NZ fur seals (if any in sight - usually there are)
- Stop and position the van facing directly into the prevailing wind. This will give you shelter when organising the refreshments
- Advise the Group of the H & S rules around the seals
- Introduce the seals and then give the Group some time to wander around and observe them and take photos
- After 10 minutes or so set up the refreshments and take orders (coffee/tea, cold drinks etc) and hand out the refreshments
- Give the Group another twenty minutes to have the refreshments and have a final look around
- Advise that it takes approximately one hour to return to the city
- Drive back out of the farm, lock the final gate and return to the city via Karori. Drive down Glenmore Street and Bowen Street and point out landmarks (Wellington Botanic Garden, Parliament etc.)
- Drop-off your group at the iSite and any other pre-arranged drop-offs.
- After completing the drop-offs and if finishing a morning tour and have an afternoon tour wait in position at the iSite for 1:30pm start
- If finished for the day, refuel the van at the Z station if the tank is less than half full, and return the van to the Depot
(2) CRUISE SHIP HALF DAY
PRE TOUR
- Arrive on time at the Depot (usually 8:15am morning tour for 9:00am start; 12:45pm afternoon tour for 1:30pm). However, note that tour times can vary due to different ship schedules (even on the day - so be prepared to be flexible).
- Make sure you:
- Have the keys to the padlock gates for Terawhiti Station (mission critical!)
- Prepare the Thermos, bags for refreshments and snacks
- Check your Runsheet on the App (REZDY)
- Confirm your pick-ups with anyone else helping you
- Check on traffic conditions (plan to leave early if there has been a crash/breakdown on the route)
- Check on weather conditions (if likely to be wet take umbrellas).
- Aim to leave the Depot at 8:30am/1:00pm to be at the Port on time. It can take up to 30 minutes to the city on busy days in peak hour traffic.
ON TOUR
- For all tours welcome the Group, outline the itinerary, and go through the H & S Checklist:
H & S Checklist
|
Tour description
Pick-up:
- Welcome the Group and outline the itinerary and timings
- Head along the Quays past the Sky Stadium and up Whitmore Street/Molesworth Street or Bowen Street (pointing out Parliament)/turning left at Glenmore Street (pointing out Wellington Botanic Garden) and head up through Karori to Makara
- Advise the Group that the drive to Terawhiti Station to head onto the Red Rocks Seal Colony takes between 30-40 minutes
Karori to Terawhiti Station
- Drive on through Karori (via Curtis Street) to Makara Valley (advise the Group that part of the trip down into Makara valley is a bit of a winding road), turning left at South Makara Road at the Makara Village and head to Terawhiti Station
Terawhiti Station
- Introduce the Group to Terawhiti Station and stop open the first padlocked gate
- Advise the Group about the gravel, winding rutted roads up and over to the Seal Colony
- Take a left at the top of the climb to the top of the ridge and head over the cattle stop to the left and then south to the right
- Stop at the top (after xx km) to show the Group the view north towards Mana and Kapiti Islands
- Head down to the Seal Colony. Advise the Group that shortly you will be leaving the Meridian maintained tracks and driving down on the rougher farm tracks. You will also be shifting into 4 Wheel Drive (D1)
- Open and close the last padlocked gate before reaching the coastline (public land)
- On approaching the Seal Colony point out the first NZ fur seals (if any in sight - usually there are)
- Stop and position the van facing directly into the prevailing wind. This will give you shelter when organising the refreshments
- Advise the Group of the H & S rules around the seals
- Introduce the seals and then give the Group some time to wander around and observe them and take photos
- After 10 minutes or so set up the refreshments and take orders (coffee/tea, cold drinks etc) and hand out the refreshments
- Give the Group another twenty minutes to have the refreshments and have a final look around
- Advise that it takes approximately one hour to return to the city
- Drive back out of the farm, lock the final gate and return to the city via Karori. Drive down Glenmore Street and Bowen Street and point out landmarks (Wellington Botanic Garden, Parliament etc.)
- If doing a morning tour offer to drop-off cruise ship passengers at the official cruise ship shuttle stop (across from Parliament).
- Take the rest of the group back to the Port for drop-off.
- Complete the drop-offs and if finishing a morning tour and have an afternoon tour wait in position at the iSite for 1:30pm start
- If finished for the day, refuel the van at the Z station if the tank is less than half full, and return the van to the Depot
[2] Tour stories: this section covers the cruise ship tours drive first (which does not go to Otari Wilton's Bush). The stories from Karori onwards apply to both tours (noting also that the cruise ship tour does not go to Otari Wilton's Bush). The final part of this section includes the FIT tours Otari-Wilton's Bush visit.
The full tour stories and facts document can be found here..
Welcome to Wellington
Welcome to Wellington, New Zealand's vibrant capital! Home to 220,000 people in the city and around 450,000 in the region, it's been the nation's capital since 1865. Known as the world’s windiest city, with average wind speeds of 18 mph, Wellington’s breezy weather is shaped by its unique geography, with mountains funnelling winds through Cook Strait. Wellington also experiences about 170 days of gale-force winds each year!
As we pass Sky Stadium, you'll see a 35,000-seat venue hosting major rugby matches, concerts by stars like Ed Sheeran and Elton John, and even events like the Edinburgh Tattoo.
Wellington is also earthquake-prone. A massive 7.8-magnitude earthquake hit near Kaikoura in 2016, damaging 70 buildings in the city. The BNZ building was demolished and rebuilt with special base isolators to absorb earthquake impact.
Next, we’ll pass Parliament, with the iconic Beehive building, and nearby landmarks like the National Library, the Court of Appeal, and Rugby House.
Heading to the Botanic Gardens, you'll explore 60 acres of beauty that date back to 1868. Once Māori garden land, it became the birthplace of New Zealand’s forestry industry. Here, 150-year-old pines grow four times faster than in their native California, thanks to New Zealand's volcanic soils. Before humans arrived, only birds and a few bats lived here, allowing flightless birds like the moa to evolve—though they and the massive Haast's eagle have since become extinct.
Karori
Karori Tunnel, built at the turn of the 20th century, is the oldest of Wellington’s 12 road tunnels. Back then, Karori was its own borough with its own mayor. The name "Karori" comes from the Māori phrase "te kaha o ngā rore," meaning "the place of many bird snares." Once covered in forest, Māori used the area for hunting and as a route to pā (fortified villages) on the west coast.
Today, Karori is one of New Zealand's largest and oldest suburbs, with around 16,000 residents. It's a desirable place to live, with a median house price of NZD $900,000. The cost of living here reflects the country's high housing prices, with income taxes ranging from 10.5% to 39%, and petrol at about $2.77 per litre. Many companies in the area pay a living wage of $27.80 per hour, and the average salary in New Zealand is around NZD $65,000.
Karori is also home to famous New Zealanders like Katherine Mansfield, a key figure in the modernist literary movement who was close friends with notable writers like D. H. Lawrence and Virginia Woolf.
Makara to Terawhiti Station
As we head into the Makara Valley, you’ll notice Monterey Pines, or Pinus radiata, thriving here. These trees grow four times faster in New Zealand than in their native California. However, they can cause environmental issues during storms when debris washes into streams.
Keep an eye out for the toxic Tutu tree as we pass, which once killed a circus elephant in the 1920s! In 2008, 22 tourists became ill from honey made with Tutu nectar, leading to a government intervention.
Terawhiti Station
We’ll soon arrive at Terawhiti Station, one of New Zealand's largest and oldest farms, spanning 13,000 hectares. Established in the 1840s by Charles Clifford and Henry Weld, it's now owned by the Riddiford family, who have maintained its rich history while embracing sustainable farming practices. The farm raises Wiltshire sheep, valued for their meat, as well as Angus cattle and wild goats. They also earn over $1 million a year by leasing land for wind turbines to Meridian Energy.
As we explore the station’s breathtaking coastal views and hills, don’t forget that New Zealand became the first nuclear-free country in 1987, with no nuclear-powered ships allowed in out waters.
Meridian Wind Farm
Next, we’ll come across the Meridian "West Wind" farm, showcasing New Zealand’s dedication to renewable energy. With 62 turbines standing 111 meters tall, the farm harnesses the strong winds of the region to generate up to 143 megawatts of electricity, enough to power 70,000 homes. Since its commissioning in 2009, this wind farm has played a role in reducing the country's reliance on fossil fuels.
Wellington itself has 88 wind turbines, supplying nearly all of the city’s electricity. New Zealand sources 87% of its power from sustainable sources, including hydro (65%), geothermal (15%), wind (6-8%), and solar, which was introduced in November 2023. These turbines are a testament to engineering ingenuity and their positive impact on the environment.
Scenic Views and Wildlife
As we stop at the ridge here, you’ll enjoy spectacular views of Mana Island and Kāpiti Island, both predator-free sanctuaries crucial for protecting native species, including the Kiwi. New Zealand was once home to about 12 million Kiwis, but today only 70,000 remain. The rarest Kiwi, the Rowi, has just 450 left. However, the Capital Kiwi project has seen successful reintroductions of Kiwi to Wellington, with the first wild-born chicks in 150 years hatching recently.
From this vantage point, you can also spot the Kaikoura Mountain range on the South Island, with Mount Tapuae-o-Uenuku (The Footsteps to the Rainbow), standing at 2,885 metres (9,465 ft), as the tallest peak outside the Southern Alps. Interestingly, although Wellington is further south, it is actually west of the northern tip of the South Island. The narrowest distance between Wellington and the South Island is just 22 km (14 miles).
The Sinking of the SS Penguin
As we continue, let me share the tragic tale of the SS Penguin. On February 12, 1909, the ferry was caught in a storm on its journey from Picton to Wellington. Striking rocks near Tongue Point, the ship sank rapidly, and despite the crew’s efforts, only 30 out of 105 passengers and crew survived, making it one of New Zealand's deadliest maritime disasters. The ship's remains still lie on the seabed, serving as a reminder of the perils of these waters.
An intriguing part of the story involves Pelorus Jack, a famous Risso’s dolphin known for guiding ships safely through Cook Strait. Jack had a long history of escorting vessels past dangerous rocks, but in 1904, the SS Penguin’s crew shot at him. A law was soon passed to protect him, the first of its kind for a sea creature. However, Jack never guided the SS Penguin again, and on the night the ship sank, he was noticeably absent. Some believe that Jack’s absence contributed to the ship's fate, adding a sense of mystery and poignancy to the tragedy.
According to Māori mythology, Pelorus Jack was thought to be a taniwha or sea god, Kaikai-a-waro, who once guided an ancestor across Cook Strait. This story reinforces the dangers of Cook Strait, one of the most treacherous bodies of water in the world, with over 70 shipwrecks scattered along its shores.
Karori Rock/Lighthouse
Ahead, you’ll see the Karori Rock Lighthouse, a crucial beacon guiding ships through the treacherous waters of Cook Strait since 1915. This kerosene lighthouse was built following the tragic sinking of the SS Penguin to prevent similar disasters. Positioned on the isolated Karori Rock, the lighthouse has been essential for maritime navigation.
Originally, lighthouse keepers were stationed here, enduring fierce winds and waves, but in the 1960s, the lighthouse was automated, eliminating the need for permanent staff. Despite the challenging conditions, it continues to serve as a vital safety measure for vessels navigating these dangerous waters.
Across the other side of the harbour is Pencarrow and the lighthouse there was run by the Mary Jane Bennett in the 19th century, who was the first official lighthouse keeper in New Zealand after the first permanent lighthouse was built there in 1859.
The South Coast of Wellington
As we continue along Wellington’s South Coast, take in the dramatic and rugged scenery. Known for its steep cliffs, rocky shores, and windswept beaches, this area is popular for hiking, fishing, and diving. It’s also an ecological hotspot, home to native plants and animals, and shaped by the forces of nature. The coastline here is dynamic, constantly changing, and offers new sights and experiences every time you visit.
Geologically, the South Coast is ancient. The rocks and cliffs were formed over 200 million years ago, during the Triassic period when Zealandia was part of the supercontinent Gondwana. The cliffs are composed of sedimentary rock, revealing the area’s geological past, and provide evidence of ancient marine environments and tectonic forces that shaped the landscape.
Cook Strait and the Meeting of the Waters
Looking out over the water, you’ll see the Cook Strait, the narrow body of water separating New Zealand’s North and South Islands. Named after Captain James Cook, who first navigated it in 1770, Cook Strait is infamous for its strong currents and unpredictable weather, making it one of the most challenging stretches of water in the world. Despite the danger, it remains a vital maritime route, used daily by ferries and cargo ships.
The Cook Strait is also a significant ecological area, supporting marine life such as dolphins, whales, and a variety of fish species. What makes it particularly fascinating is that it’s where the Pacific Ocean and Tasman Sea meet, creating a mix of water temperatures and currents. This convergence not only supports diverse marine life but also contributes to the strait’s notorious weather patterns and strong tides.
NZ Fur Seals at Tongue Point
Our next stop brings us to the NZ fur seals, or kekeno, at Tongue Point. These seals are a common sight along the Wellington coast and particularly love to haul out here to bask in the sun. The NZ fur seal is known for its playful nature and can often be seen socializing and resting on the shore after hunting for fish and squid in the waters.
Maori refer to the NZ fur seals as kekeno, and they share their species with the Australian fur seals found in South Australia and Tasmania. Males can grow up to 150 kg, while females are about a third of that size. They have a fascinating breeding cycle. After giving birth between November and February, they mate again just a week later but delay the fertilization for three months before starting a nine-month gestation, meaning they’re pregnant for almost the entire year!
Where we’re visiting is a "haulout" spot, typically where the males hang out. The females, along with their pups, are located at Cape Palliser, about two hours away, which acts as a nursery. The males here are either too young or too old to compete for breeding rights at the nursery, making this a unique place to observe them. Thanks to conservation efforts, the fur seal population has rebounded, and they are now protected by law, allowing us to enjoy their presence today.
NZ Fur Seals in Winter
In winter, we’re likely to see some females and their pups at Tongue Point. Seals give birth to one pup each year and live to around 17 years of age. Though New Zealand fur seals are thriving today, they do have natural predators, such as great white sharks and orcas. New Zealand is home to around 150 orca, most of which have been individually identified by their unique markings. Orcas live in separate pods, and Wellington has a local pod of about 30. We occasionally spot them along this coastline.
Seals are nocturnal hunters, typically fishing at night when squid rise to the surface, but they are remarkable divers, capable of reaching depths of 200 meters. The longest recorded dive for a New Zealand fur seal is 11 minutes. They also feed on small fish and eels.
Our company is proud to be the only operator licensed by the Department of Conservation to conduct seal tours in Wellington. It’s important that we respect these animals and their environment. We need to keep at least 20 meters back from the seals to avoid disturbing them, and I will guide you to ensure we’re safe and the seals remain undisturbed. If you’re wearing a cap and the wind blows it off, don’t rush forward; I’ll assess the safety of retrieving it.
While the seals are not dangerous and won’t rush at us, they are wild animals, so we must be cautious and avoid getting between them and the sea. It’s also important to remember they can blend in with the rocks, so stay mindful of your surroundings.
The Capital Kiwi Project
Just a short distance from here at Terawhiti Station in Makara, we have the incredible Capital Kiwi Project, an inspiring effort to reintroduce kiwi to Wellington’s wild landscapes after more than 100 years of absence. This initiative, started in 2018 by passionate locals, aims to bring our iconic kiwi back into the natural world here in Wellington.
The project’s long-term goal is to establish a population of 200 kiwi living safely in the wild. Achieving this has required a major effort in predator control, as kiwi chicks are highly vulnerable to predators like stoats, ferrets, and rats. Today, the project spans over 23,000 hectares, with 4,500 traps working to keep predators at bay, ensuring young kiwi have a fighting chance to survive. In fact, only about 5% of kiwi chicks typically survive in the wild without such protections.
A major milestone came in 2019 with the release of the first kiwi back into Wellington’s wild. The most exciting moment, however, was in 2023, when the first wild-born kiwi chick hatched—proof that the project is succeeding.
But this isn’t just about numbers; it’s about restoring a critical part of New Zealand’s natural heritage. Kiwi are considered a keystone species, meaning their presence benefits the broader ecosystem. For Māori, kiwi are also a taonga (treasure) of deep cultural significance, making their return even more meaningful. The project is about rekindling both ecological balance and cultural heritage.
The work isn’t finished yet—the project’s goal is to continue expanding until we have a thriving population of kiwi. Predator control efforts are also being expanded into new areas, and it’s a real community effort, with volunteers, landowners, and locals all playing key roles in making sure kiwi have a safe home.
Te Rauparaha and Local Māori History
Let’s dive into the rich Māori history of this region, focusing on Te Rauparaha, one of the most influential Māori chiefs of the early 19th century. He was the leader of Ngāti Toa, a tribe that played a significant role in the history of Wellington and surrounding areas.
Te Rauparaha was renowned for his strategic brilliance and warrior prowess. He led his people through numerous migrations and battles, securing land and resources through his cunning and alliances. One of his most famous contributions to New Zealand’s cultural heritage is the haka "Ka Mate," which he composed to celebrate a narrow escape from enemies. Today, this haka is performed by the New Zealand rugby team, the All Blacks, before their matches, carrying Te Rauparaha’s legacy onto the world stage.
Te Rauparaha’s leadership and strategic alliances helped shape the history of the Wellington region. His settlement in the area solidified Ngāti Toa’s presence and influence, making them a powerful force in the region. His story is deeply intertwined with the cultural and historical landscape of Wellington, and his legacy remains an integral part of Māori heritage here toda
Karori cemetery
Karori Cemetery, established in 1891 was the second largest in the country. The cemetery is the final resting place for many prominent figures in New Zealand's history, such as:
- Sir Michael Joseph Savage: New Zealand’s first Labour Prime Minister, pivotal in shaping the country's social welfare system.
- William Ferguson Massey: Prime Minister of New Zealand, instrumental in developing agricultural policies.
- Sgt. Dan (Daniel) McKenzie: A decorated World War I soldier with notable contributions to New Zealand’s military history.
- Harry McNeish: Carpenter on Ernest Shackleton's Endurance expedition, honored posthumously in New Zealand despite being denied the Polar Medal during his lifetime. His grave includes a statue of his cat, Mrs. Chippy.
Thorndon – Wellington’s Oldest Suburb
If traveling from central Wellington to Wilton, you’ll pass through Thorndon, one of the city’s most historic suburbs. It is renowned for its heritage buildings and proximity to government institutions, including the iconic Beehive (Parliament’s Executive Wing). With its charming Victorian and Edwardian architecture, Thorndon offers a glimpse into the city’s early European settlement and development as New Zealand’s capital.
Kauri Timber’s Global Reach
In the mid-19th century, Kauri timber from New Zealand was shipped to cities like Sydney and San Francisco, playing a vital role in their construction. After the 1906 San Francisco earthquake, Kauri was used in the city’s rebuilding efforts.
Premier House
Premier House, the official residence of the New Zealand Prime Minister, includes a section of the original house built in the 1840s, making it one of Wellington’s oldest surviving colonial structures. Despite its heritage, the current Prime Minister prefers city accommodation due to the extensive upgrades required to modernize the property.
A Cultural Misstep
During the construction of early Wellington roads, local Māori were asked to assist but were expected to work through meal breaks. The phrase "tina kahore", meaning "no dinner," reflects this early cultural misunderstanding and tension between Māori and colonial settlers
Otari Wilton’s Bush
Otari-Wilton's Bush is Aotearoa New Zealand's only native botanical garden, recognized as a Six-Star Garden of International Significance. This status highlights its importance as a conservation and educational hub, attracting global attention.
On arrival, visitors pass through the beautifully carved waharoa, a traditional Māori gateway symbolizing the transition into the natural sanctuary. Established in 1926, Otari-Wilton's Bush spans over 100 hectares, thanks to Job Wilton, who preserved 7 hectares of native bush in the 19th century.
Key stops include the Alpine Garden, showcasing resilient alpine plants adapted to harsh conditions. You’ll also learn about iconic species like Pohutukawa, New Zealand’s "Christmas tree," and the Northern Rātā, a parasitic tree that starts life as a vine before overtaking its host.
You’ll encounter rare species like Kaikomako, once considered the world’s rarest tree. Conservation efforts saved this species, demonstrating the importance of preserving native flora. Along the way, you’ll also learn about the threats posed by introduced species like possums, which devour vast amounts of native vegetation each night.
The tour highlights New Zealand's unique forests, exploring their layers, and offers insights into the relationship between Māori and the native plants, including traditional uses of Kawakawa for medicine.
This is the Puriri tree, known for its incredibly hardwood, comparable to mahogany. Early settlers avoided cutting it down because it was too tough on their tools. The Puriri moth lives inside the tree as a grub for seven years, then hatches into New Zealand’s largest moth, but only lives for two days without eating, focusing solely on mating and laying eggs. The holes left by the grub in the tree become homes for wētā.
Otari-Wilton’s Bush has three species of wētā:
- Wellington Tree Wētā (Pūtangatanga): Nocturnal and omnivorous, these wētā play an essential role in seed dispersal. Males have large black heads and jaws, often fighting other males for mates, while females have long ovipositors resembling stingers for laying eggs.
- Cave Wētā (Toko-riro): These wētā live in tunnels or under stones and have long legs for jumping—up to 3 meters! They detect vibrations through foot pads rather than hearing sounds.
- Giant Wētā (Wētā Punga): Known as the “God of Ugly Things,” these wētā occupied the forest floor, eating seeds and dead animals. However, they were nearly wiped out by the Pacific rat (Kiore) brought by Māori settlers, now surviving only on islands or in sanctuaries.
Also notable is the Nikau Palm, the world’s southernmost palm, which takes up to 30 years to emerge from the ground. The Silver Fern (Ponga) is an iconic symbol of New Zealand, with its silvery underside reflecting moonlight, historically guiding Māori through forests. Today, the fern is a national emblem representing New Zealand pride and identity.
The Fernery
This area showcases a wide variety of ferns, a significant component of New Zealand’s flora. For a temperate, cool climate, New Zealand has an unusually high number of fern species—around 200—with nearly half being native. These range from the smallest to some of the tallest ferns in the world. From delicate maidenhair ferns to majestic tree ferns, the collection highlights the diversity and beauty of these ancient plants. Among the tree ferns here, you’ll see the Mamaku (black tree fern) and Whekī.
New Zealand’s native forest is almost entirely evergreen, with only two deciduous trees: the Kōtukutuku and the Kōwhai, which lose their leaves in winter.
Kauri (Agathis australis)
Kauri trees are one of the world's mightiest species, renowned for their size and longevity. Found primarily north of Auckland, they don't naturally grow in Wellington's cooler climate but do thrive here when planted. Kauri trees have straight trunks and spreading canopies, with wood highly valued for building and carving. The Kauri in this area are still young. In Northland, the largest living Kauri, Tāne Mahuta (the “God of the Forest”), is between 1,250 and 2,500 years old, standing 17.8 meters (58 feet) tall with a girth of 15.44 meters (50.7 feet). In the past, there were even larger Kauri, including a massive tree with a 30-meter girth (almost 90 feet) thought to be over 4,000 years old, tragically lost to a fire in 1891. This symbolizes the destruction of New Zealand’s original forests, with only about 40,000 mature Kauri remaining—just 5% of what existed before settlers arrived to harvest the wood.
Karaka Tree
While New Zealand lacks poisonous snakes or spiders, it does have poisonous trees, such as the Karaka (Māori for "orange"). The tree produces large, abundant fruits with toxic kernels, dangerous to dogs. The Māori found a way to process the kernels safely by soaking them in running water for a week and roasting them in a fire. They would test them on slaves, and if they were unharmed, the villagers could eat the processed kernels.
This leads to the question: did Māori have slaves? Yes, Māori are a tribal people, with around 105 distinct tribes across New Zealand. Conflict between tribes sometimes led to enslavement. Māori culture is rooted in the indigenous language, Te Reo Māori, which has several dialects, though one beautiful, unified language is spoken today. The Māori trace their ancestry back to the Society Islands, and DNA analysis connects them to Taiwan, then through Micronesia, Melanesia, and Polynesia. Māori culture and language, which nearly disappeared in the late 19th century, are now thriving, with around 4% of the population able to speak Te Reo, and nearly 900,000 New Zealanders identifying as Māori today.
Canopy Walkway
The elevated walkway offers a ‘bird’s-eye’ view of the forest canopy, allowing visitors to admire the symmetry of native ferns. Below, you can glimpse the beautiful Kaiwharawhara Stream, which weaves through the hillside suburbs before reaching Wellington Harbour near the Interislander Ferry terminal.
Leonard Cockayne Lawn and Vulnerable Species Garden
Leonard Cockayne was one of New Zealand’s most eminent botanists and a driving force behind the establishment of Otari-Wilton's Bush. His pioneering work in plant ecology laid the foundation for much of what we know today about New Zealand’s native flora. He was an advocate for the conservation of native plants, promoting the creation of botanical gardens like Otari dedicated to their study and preservation. The vulnerable species area at Otari continues his legacy, focusing on protecting and cultivating rare and endangered plants, ensuring their survival for future generation.
As we reach the viewpoint overlooking the podocarp forest, we can appreciate the majestic 800-year-old Rimu, affectionately known as 'Moko.' It was a finalist in the New Zealand Tree of the Year competition in 2024. This ancient tree is a living monument to the past, standing tall as a symbol of resilience and natural heritage. The surrounding podocarp forest, with its mix of Totara, Mataī, Kahikatea, and Rimu trees, offers a rare glimpse into what much of New Zealand's lowland forests looked like before human settlement. Further up the hill, you can see the gradual regeneration of the land, purchased by the Wellington Regional Council, significantly expanding the size of this reserve. This effort reflects the broader conservation movement in Wellington, one of the few cities in the world actively increasing biodiversity and green space, creating a better environment for both wildlife and people to thrive together.
Native Fauna at Otari-Wilton's Bush
Otari-Wilton's Bush is home to a rich diversity of native fauna. Birds are particularly abundant, with species such as Tūī, Kererū (New Zealand pigeon), Pīwakawaka (fantail), and Kākā often seen or heard throughout the forest. The garden also provides habitats for native insects like the iconic Wētā, as well as reptiles such as skinks and geckos. Notably, a Kiwi has recently made Otari-Wilton's Bush its home, a testament to the success of conservation efforts in creating a safe haven for these endangered birds. These animals play crucial roles in the ecosystem, from pollinating plants to controlling insect populations, underscoring the garden's ecological importance.
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